Caroline Lewis explores off the beaten track in north-west Spain
The rugged Basque region of north-west Spain is a land of golden bays, sun-baked mountains and tasty tapas. Easily reached via the ferry ports at Bilbao or Santander, or indeed by flights here or to Biarritz for France’s south-west surfer’s coastline paradise, this is a great gateway to a hidden part of Spain.
With a coastline of Rio-rivalling beaches and a number of elegant ‘Belle Epoque’ cities, the Basque country offers a city-and-sand break in one, with plenty of days out for all the family. Hondarribia, with its 10th-century castle and medieval centre, now a Spanish Parador, is a good first-night base if you’re driving.
Bilbao on the northern shores is home to Frank Gehry’s iconic Guggenheim Museum, a monolithic silver structure that houses an ever-changing collection of modern art, and further along the coast to the east is San Sebastián, a popular stop on Cosmos’ itineraries. It’s a perfectly preserved maze of churches, cobbles and pinxtos bars (the Basque version of tapas). Look out for foie gras with figs, and prawns with bacon, often served on a slice of bread.
Image: Luis M. Seco / Shutterstock.com
Moving south into the Navarre region, wine and cheese feature heavily, as do the hanging hams in bars, making it ideal for a gastronomic tour. It’s also close to
La Rioja, which borders both the Basque country and Navarre to the south.
Pamplona is a less well-known city that was once home to Ernest Hemingway
Navarre, in the green foothills of the Pyrenees, with charming small villages, Roman ruins and medieval castles, is intriguing and its capital, Pamplona, is a less well-known city that was once home to Ernest Hemingway and is now the host of an annual festival where bulls chase foolhardy young men through the streets.
The Camino de Santiago pilgrimage passes through this city and out into the remote mountain surrounds. Zaragoza, in what was the medieval kingdom of Aragon, is also worth a visit for its trinity of UNESCO-listed cathedral, basilica and palace. It’s another popular stop on Cosmos’ itineraries.
Nearby are the Pyrenees, and skiing opportunities in Formigal, which, with 137 kilometres of pistes, is the largest ski resort in Spain. The summits and canyons of the Picos de Europa are a draw for walkers, nature lovers and photographers with the wilder Spanish side of this range encompassing the Ordesa canyon and the limestone Monte Perdido, peaking at a dizzying 3,355 metres.
Hiking in the Pyrenees can be as challenging as you make it, but one thing is for sure: the pinxtos taste better still!
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